Frequently Asked Questions

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Q. A friend of mine used full sheets of Dynamat in his car. Why do you only use squares and rectangles?

A. First of all, the Dynamic Control's family of products is excellent and that is why we use them as the first stage of our two-step AcoustiSHIELD process. Dynamat's primary function is to stop large expansive body panels from "ringing" as a result of vibration. We don't use full sheets of Dynamat because we have found that covering approximately 25% of a panel (the "flat spots between the structural ridges and seams that vibrate) does the same job as covering the entire panel.

Dynamat by itself, has minimal insulation value and which is why we couple it with HeatShield which has a laboratory rated thermal value of R-18.3 - the equivalent of six inches of fiberglass house insulation.

When we combine Dynamat with HeatShield we enhance the dampening effect of Dynamat by trapping the remaining sound waves within the heat shield layers, much like the effect of a "dual Pane" window stops noise and heat. The metal body panel is the outside "pane" and the aluminum barrer is the interior "pane" with the insulation serving as the "air gap" between the two metal survaces

We have demonstrated our "squares and rectangles," practice at every car show we attend, and customers can attest to the effectiveness of small amounts of Dynamat with their own ears! The efficient use of Dynamat in strategic locations is less costly to the consumer and easier to handle.

Q. I can buy rolls of that foil insulation stuff cheaper at a swap meet. Why should I purchase one of your kits with the foil insulation in it?

A. There are a lot of foil insulation materials on the market - from bubble pack/foil, to fiberglass/foil, to foam/foil, to cloth/foil, to ceramic/foil. Be a wise consumer. Ask for the literature and the specifications. If the label says its "great stuff" - dig deeper.

  • What is the laboratory rated thermal factor?----not the estimated percentage of heat reduction.
  • What is the NCR acoustical rating?
  • Does the material include a fire retardant?
  • Is it moisture and mildew resistant?
  • What is its tear and abrasion strength?

  • We use Heat Shield because it is laboratory tested and rated, and it out performs the look-a-likes. (See the specifications listed elsewhere). Yes, it may be a tad more expensive, but you only want to insulate your car once.

    The other issue you want to consider is waste and the value of your time and effort. Our pre-cut, ready-to install kits, we take a total vehicle approach to sound dampening and insulation - from the firewall to the tail lights. With our kits, there is "zero" waste and you get everything you need in one box to do the job right - the two-stage materials - damper pads and heat shield, spray adhesive, aluminum seam tape and fully illustrated instructions - and no blisters trying to cut material with scissors.

    Q. I am weighing the insulation options on the market and keep hearing about the new spray-on ceramic materials. What is your comment?

    A. The short answer is that we have a lot of customers that have used the spray on ceramic paints and then come to use to purchase one of our kits.

    There are a lot of unanswered questions in regard to the amount of dampening and insulation achieved vs. the magnitude of the product cost and application process. Testimonials are great, but as with other insulation products, the consumer needs to do a little research and ask questions.

    The final decision is the time/cost factor.

    We calculated the cost of doing a ceramic application on the interior of a 1964 Chevrolet Impala Coupe, which would include everything from the firewall to the tail lights - roof, floor, firewall, cowl and dash, wheel wells, trunk, trunk lid, body panels, rear fender panels and doors - approximately 194 square feet.

    The average cost of ceramic insulation is $185 for a two-gallon pail and you will need five pails to achieve the recommended application thickness.
    Material cost $925

    If you want to take it to another level, you would also want to apply the sound control material. You will need five two-gallon pails at an average cost of $175/pail
    Material cost: $875

    You also have to have a special spray gun to apply this material, not to mention the backup equipment (lots of air compressor volumn) and a place do the work.
    Tool Cost: $119

    Body Preparation:
    Remember that this is a paint material and the body shell of the vehicle will have to thoroughly cleaned and primed (ideally, sandblasted). To have a local company strip and or clean your vehicle will be expensive.
    Labor and Material Cost: $2,800

    Using the standard application formula, the cost of the spray-on ceramic works out to the following:

    Ceramic insulation material - $925
    Sound Control material - $875
    Shutz gun - $119
    Total Material Cost - $1,919
    Body Preparation cost - $2,800
    Your time: Three to five days of hard labor and clean-up.

    Q. I've see some project cars where a rubber spray-on truck bedliner material has been used. What is your opinion?

    A. See discussion regarding the use of ceramic coatings. The issues are pretty much the same - how much benefit do you really get for the investment cost and, particularly with the bedliner materials, what complications will you have with future repairs if needed.

    Remember, nothing sticks to dirt and grime. The interior body panels will have to cleaned or stripped.

    We checked the cost factor with a local dealer and found that to spray the 1963 Chevrolet Impala Coupe in the same manner as we did with a ceramic insulation paint coating, the cost would run $2,500 without the newspaper discount coupons. The fringe benefit is that you don't get your hands dirty!

    Q. I finished my 1940 Ford coupe and installed one of the top-of-the-line aftermarket air-conditioning systems under the dash. The system runs continuously and the car is always warm inside.

    A. A powerful air-conditioning system is never a substitute for insulation - its a little like buying a refrigerator without the door - the milk will always be luke warm! The walls of your refrigerator are heavily insulated and so should be the interior of your car or truck. The thermal value of heatshield thermal acoustic insulation is the same as six inches of fiberglass house insulation - this material will keep everything inside the car warm or cool to the point that you will have to turn down the HVAC unit or it will freeze you out.

    Q. I installed a new exhaust system and mufflers on my Chevelle and it sounds great. After a while, the noise and rumble really starts to wear on my ears and I have to turn the stereo up to hear it. What can I do?

    A. We answer this question just about every day via telephone or email. Obviously, that great sound has to stay - right?

    Now, the question is how to control the sound and keep it outside the car. Again, the issue comes down to properly insulating the interior of the car. As we have demonstrated at car shows with the AcoustiTRUCK, proper insulation makes a huge difference. The materials we use in our kits will literally extract the noise from the passenger cabin and external noise is stopped before it enters the passenger